Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Topics regarding the Uzebox hardware/AVCore/BaseBoard (i.e: PCB, resistors, connectors, part list, schematics, hardware issues, etc.) should go here.
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uze6666
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by uze6666 »

I can't find the thread, but recently there was a discussion about printing the Uzebox enclosure. Although I used Shapeways back then, these days I consider them pretty damn expensive. Instead I strongly recommend JLCPCB 3d printing service. The prices are just insane: The top + bottom parts will probably cost you under 15$ including shipping! The caveat is that (you a have choice of materials) but not so much on colors at this time alas. That said, I have tried the nylon materials on SLA process and they are amazingly smooth, totally like injection molding. Also tried the smoothed SLS HP jet fusion materials, pretty amazing but with a slightly rougher surface.
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danboid
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

I've printed my UB case but there is a gap of approx 2-3 mm between the tops of the SNES connectors and the top shell. Is this normal or are my SNES connectors not quite as chunky as the ones everyone else has been using?
UB-controller-gap.jpg
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I lost the LEDs I ordered and ended up using a bigger one that won't fit into the lightpipe.

I see I need a ISP extension cable if I want to use the hole in the bottom of the case. Where do I buy one of those?

The guide says I need 2mmx10mm self-tapping screws but from reading this thread it seems it should actually list 3mm screws instead. Did you use the same size screws to screw the board into the case as you used to screw the case together?

The enclosure assembly guide should be available to download from http://uzebox.org/download.htm along with the main UB assembly guide.
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Artcfox
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by Artcfox »

It looks like the connectors on mine have a flange on the front of them, and little vertical spacers behind the flange that center it inside that gap.

You might be able to find an IDC extension cable on DigiKey, but odds are it will be custom made and very expensive. I ordered the older version of the case that doesn't have the hole in the bottom from Shapeways, and I've only flashed my bootloader once, so it's up to you whether you want it or not. I don't have that cable, but I would probably just make one if I needed it. You can get the IDC ribbon cables and the vampire connectors for them from DigiKey. I didn't get the fancy expensive tool to press them together, so I just use my small arbor press to squeeze them together (stopping before I totally crush the connector). It cost a lot of money for the bare cables and connectors though, but I already had them for another project.

The screw size will depend on the tolerances of your 3D printer. The shapeways version didn't fit with the screws, so I ended up putting hot glue in the holes to help hold the screws in. It's not perfect, but it works.

Hope this helps!
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danboid
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

So you're saying you don't have a 2+ mm gap above your SNES connectors then right?

My connectors:
Uzebox-connectors-top.jpg
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Uzebox-connectors-side.jpg
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The ISP cable sounds like more hassle than its worth. Like you say, I'm unlikely to be reflashing the MCU very often once I've finished building it,its likely to just be the bootloader but its nice to have the ISP hole there for when I'm using the Uzebox via UART MIDI cable. A serial cable seems like the best option to compose a track for the Uzebox until UB patch studio gets extended and fixed for such purposes or someone writes an accurate Uzebox softsynth plugin.
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Artcfox
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by Artcfox »

On mine, there is a gap all around, but the connector has spacers that center it within the gap, and the front of the connector has a flange that hides the gap.
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danboid
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

OK, it sounds like there must be at least two different types of replacement SNES connectors out there then and I got the wrong ones. As long as they work I don't care, I can line the bottom of the connector gaps in the case with some rubber or something if it really annoys me, or try to find the same connectors that you have but I'm not that concerned by it.

Here's my UB case without the buttons in place and without any screws or glue holding it together. You may notice the Sun logo badge in the background. That fell off a Sun rack and it just so happens to perfectly fit over the Uzebox Z logo. I'm tempted to stick it on top.

After printing the top shell with PLA, the ridges on the top side weren't visible so I had to carve them out with my thumbnail.
Uzebox-case.jpg
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by Artcfox »

Looks good!
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danboid
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

Thanks! I think it looks better than the PS3 its sat on.

It might be possible to play Uzebox games on the PS3 under MAME? I've not tried. I've not tried Uzebox under MAME on any platform as its not as simple as loadig a .uze like with cuzebox or uzem, according to the wiki. It would be cool to see cuzebox ported to the PS3. Its a good console for emulators and you can often pick one up quite cheaply.
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danboid
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

Uze:

I've not read this thread in full so I don't know if someone has already told you that the reset and power button STL files are named incorrectly on both thingiverse and youmagine. The reset is the power button and vice versa.

The good news is that the guy who helped fix a couple of issues with my Uzebox is going to build his own Uzebox soon. I'm sure he'll do a much better job and do it much faster than me.
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Re: Uzebox 3D printed enclosure!

Post by danboid »

Since I last posted to this thread I've re-printed (in dark gray) and inserted the buttons and screwed the case together and its looking and feeling a lot more finished. The case is just missing the light pipe now which I expect to get next over the next week and I'm also still awaiting my SD socket.

The main reason I wanted to give an update was to mention that the recommended screws (I used 3x12 mm) have worked fine for me for both screwing the PCB into the lower shell and for securing the lower and the upper half. I have screwed it opened and closed it again at least a few times and it seems perfectly happy, no glue has been required. Maybe it was the type of plastic you used Artcfox? I printed mine with PLA.
IMG_20230205_203820.jpg
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